Last year, as I took my first sip of Tipsy Garden, the experimental 70-day gin-barrel-aged white tea from Volition Tea, I was transported to a realm of sensory complexity I had never expected. The delicate yet bold notes of juniper, oak, and a subtle botanical sweetness danced on my palate, leaving me in awe of this unique creation. This singular tea adventure ignited my taste buds and piqued my curiosity about the ever-evolving landscape of the tea industry.
Recently, the 2nd barrel of Tipsy Garden was released. Boasting a 100-day aging process, this batch already improves its aromatic presence. To delve deeper into this intriguing infusion and its broader implications for the tea world, I had the privilege of sitting down with Annie Xiang, the visionary founder of Volition Tea. Our conversation traversed through the intricacies of Tipsy Garden’s inception, its collaboration with KOVAL Distillery, and the connections it draws between tea and other craft beverage industries, particularly coffee. Join me as I explore the fusion of tradition and innovation in tea.
I have never tried Volition Tea or white tea aged in a gin barrel before, so I didn’t know what to expect. However I was pleasantly surprised when the dry leaves and liquor had a tinge of an alcohol scent which carried over from the barrel! The taste was floral with a honey-sweetness and a kick of spiceness at the back of the throat. The flavour was delicate and paired nicely with the gin taste.
Connie of Tea In Spoons
Tai Mu Region
Nestled within the picturesque Tai Mu Mountain area in Fuding, Fujian Province, the art of tea cultivation unfolds against a backdrop of breathtaking landscapes and unique geological attributes. Here, the distinctive soil composition is characterized by a judicious blend of well-draining, mineral-rich components, creating an environment ideal for tea. Minerals including potassium, phosphorus, and calcium further contribute to the nuanced attributes discernible in the final product, emphasizing the significance of the terroir in this white tea’s production.
Moreover, within the microcosm of Tai Mu Mountain, the temperature dynamics further elevate the cultivation process. The mesoclimate of the mountainous terrain manifests in temperature ranges of approximately 15 to 25 degrees Celsius (59 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit) during the growing season. This elevation-induced coolness, coupled with mist-laden mornings and ample sunlight, creates an optimal environment for the slow and delicate maturation of the tea plants. The interplay of these climatic nuances not only influences the growth of the tea leaves but also contributes to the overall character and complexity of the white tea produced in this venerable region. While it’s no wonder this region produces wonderful tea, the farmer/producer is who brings the tea material to life!
The Farmer
Huang Hai Qiang, originally from Shandong Province, pursued a career in chemistry after studying the subject in college until the early 2000s. However, his fervent passion for tea transformed into an obsession, prompting him to embark on a journey to Fuding, Fujian Province. Under the mentorship of one of the country’s esteemed white tea producers, he delved into the intricacies of white tea production.
After two years of intensive learning, Huang Hai Qiang took a significant leap by acquiring two tea gardens and their respective factories in Tai Mu Mountain, Fuding. His objective was to apply the knowledge he had gained and further refine both farming and production techniques. In a distinctive approach, he chose to retain the original staff from both sites instead of bringing in new management and production teams, prioritizing the financial stability of the existing personnel.
Confronting the challenges of being perceived as an “outsider,” Huang Hai Qiang finds great satisfaction in witnessing the flourishing of the business. Throughout this journey, his primary focus remains nurturing the tea trees and caring for the individuals involved in the production process.
DETAILS
Season: April 21, 2022
Cultivar: Da Hao
Origin: Tai Mu Mtn., Fujian, China
Picking/Processing: Bud + 2 leaves
Elevation: ~ 500-1200m
MY EXPERIENCE (Barrel #2)
My Brewing Parameters
Leaf/Water Ratio – 6 g for 150 mL
Starting Temp – 94°C
Infusion time(s) – 15 sec. + 5 sec.
Eyes Dry: Curled ivory-white buds, leaves containing hints of sage-green, tinged with golden hues.
Nose Dry: Delicately floral with a subtle herbal and juniper undertone, evoking the essence of a tranquil garden at dusk.
Nose Wet: Fragrant notes of jasmine intertwine with whispers of juniper berries, layered over a mineral-rich foundation.
Eyes Liquor: Pale amber hue with a subtle golden shimmer, shifting to brown sugar copper
Mouth Texture: Silken and velvety, coating the palate with a luxurious embrace.
Mouth Taste: Florals mingle with hints of crisp apple and a gentle whisper of botanicals.
Nose Cup: Sweet aromas of candied lemon peel dance playfully with the warmth of vanilla
Mouth Finish: Floral sweetness envelops the senses, leaving behind a whisper of oak, a dryness that invites another sip.
Eyes Wet: Translucent amber infusion with hints of rose gold.
Body Sensation: A serene sense of euphoria – leaving a gentle warmth that radiates from within.
I loved Tipsy Garden Barrel#2 from Volition Tea. I am really surprised because I have not had good luck liking – let alone loving – any of the previous alcohol (or barrel-infused) teas I’ve tried in the past. The gin’s juniper notes were a lovely complement to the honey notes in the white tea. I could see myself having a lot of fun drinking this tea hot again as well as experimenting with Tipsy Garden sparkling and iced, too.
Traci Levy of Tea Infusiast
INTERVIEW WITH ANNIE XIANG
I sat down with Annie to explore the nuance of taking on Tipsy Garden barrels #1 and #2. In this conversation, we delve into Annie’s inspiration behind this experimental aging process, the challenges, and the innovative partnerships that shaped the tea’s creation. Join me as Annie shares her journey of creativity, collaboration, and pushing the boundaries of traditional tea production.
Marco Namowicz: Tipsy Garden is a unique 70-day gin-barrel-aged white tea. What inspired you to experiment with this aging process, and what flavor profiles were you aiming to achieve? What challenges were you faced with in the process?
Annie Xiang: Creating a tea company that focuses on single-origin loose-leaf teas with an emphasis on farmers means that all creativity stems from the farmers. While I am passionate about this mission, I find myself longing for ways to express my own creativity. Towards the end of my origin trip to China in April 2023, I met farmer Huang Hai Qiang, a white tea producer in Fujian. He crafts exceptional, traditional white teas with impeccable plucking consistency. I aspired to collaborate with him, yet his high-grade white teas surpassed our sourcing budget. During our discussion, he mentioned that because he only produces some of the highest grades, his tea bushes have much more potential than he currently utilizes. This conversation lingered in my mind upon returning to the US, igniting a desire to find a way to collaborate with him.
I contemplated the idea of barrel aging, as it has gained popularity in the production of beer, spirits, and coffee. I pondered, why not give tea a try? I opted for a gin barrel to age white tea, as both products share herbaceous aromas and flavor profiles. With no preconceived notions of how the flavor would develop, the entire project posed a massive challenge since there is no established rulebook for this process. The wet barrel allows the leaves to absorb flavor and aroma, but questions arose: How do we determine if the leaves have aged too long and risk becoming moldy? How do I maneuver large white tea leaves in and out of the barrel? Will the barrel’s flavors and aromas truly alter the tea leaves? Is the presence of high-proof alcohol detrimental to the success of the process? These uncertainties loomed as I embarked on this experimental journey.
Collaborating with KOVAL Distillery is quite unconventional in the tea industry. Can you tell us more about the partnership and how it influenced the development of Tipsy Garden? Are there any lessons from this collaboration that the tea industry can learn from other beverage sectors like spirits?
I think credits need to be given to tea blend makers. They have been scenting teas for centuries and barrel aging tea really isn’t that different. In my pursuit of means to express my own creativity, we have done countless collaborations with local companies. The main lesson I learned from that experience is people love collaborations and trying different things. After I decided on barrel aging a white tea, KOVAL is the first one that came to my mind, as they are a local, woman-owned distillery and I love their gin. They were immediately enthusiastic about the collaboration and offered a barrel for me to experiment with.
The concept of aging tea in barrels is reminiscent of the aging process in whiskey and wine production. How do you see the cross-pollination of techniques and ideas between the tea and alcoholic beverage industries impacting future tea innovations?
Absolutely! The Food & Beverage industry is a vast, vibrant world. As a purveyor, remaining vigilant for inspiration within and beyond the industry can fuel the creation of a more dynamic brand and innovative products for your consumers.
The farmer, Huang Hai Qiang, has a background in chemistry. How has his scientific expertise contributed to the production of Tipsy Garden, and do you believe such interdisciplinary knowledge can lead to more innovations in the tea industry?
The two main areas where I believe his chemistry background shines through in his tea production are his rigorous standards and in-depth understanding and utilization of modern tools for organic farming. Consider the plucking standard I mentioned earlier; while teas generally have a standard for plucking, it’s challenging to ensure that tea pluckers exclusively adhere to that standard. The pluckers are typically distant from the finished products, and the collective process evolves. However, Huang demonstrates patience, methodical precision, and a willingness to invest extra time to collaborate with pluckers to achieve perfection. He collaborated with me to determine the ideal harvest time – Gu Yu – enabling us to obtain larger white leaves essential for barrel aging. His ability to collaborate on such a distinctive project was a pivotal factor in the success of Tipsy Garden.
Tipsy Garden is crafted from the Da Hao cultivar. Can you explain why cultivar was chosen, and how it influences the tea’s flavor and aroma?
Huang primarily cultivates two varieties: Da Hao and Da Bai. We selected Da Hao due to timing and harvest availability. Fresh Da Hao, particularly when harvested during Gu Yu, exudes distinct “Qing” notes – grassy and herbaceous. However, this flavor profile is too intense to meet his standard for regular production. This allowed me the opportunity to acquire this harvest and experiment with it creatively.
The retention of original staff by the farmer, despite being an outsider in the tea industry, is admirable. How do you think this approach to management and production can inspire sustainability and social responsibility within the tea industry?
Undoubtedly, it’s an incredibly challenging endeavor. As someone not native to Fujian and with a distinct northern accent, replicating what he achieved was formidable. However, if he hadn’t retained the original staff, workers might have been compelled to leave the tea gardens for other industries, further exacerbating the decline of agricultural forces. By retaining them, generations can continue to contribute to this industry and explore additional avenues for success.
Sustainability is a key concern in both the tea and coffee industries. What sustainable practices were employed in the production of Tipsy Garden, and how can these practices be scaled up to promote eco-consciousness in the tea industry?
Huang, like all the farmers we collaborate with, abstains from using chemical fertilizers or pesticides. Moreover, he typically avoids harvesting during Gu Yu to allow his tea bushes ample time to recuperate and thrive. Therefore, when harvesting for this project, he did so sparingly. Tea plants can be harvested up to 11 times a year, with Gu Yu marking the fourth and final round of harvesting for him.
We repurposed a barrel that would have otherwise been discarded, aligning with our commitment to sustainability. However, scaling up while maintaining sustainability poses challenges, as every facet of a sustainable business model incurs costs upfront with the expectation of future savings.
Climate change presents a significant threat to tea agriculture, particularly to organic farming communities that eschew pesticides. In my opinion, the foremost priority is to raise awareness of these issues. While tea companies, especially those directly sourcing from farms, often portray idyllic tea gardens to patrons, acknowledging the less glamorous realities can empower customers to make more environmentally conscious decisions.
Lastly, how do you envision the future of experimental teas like Tipsy Garden? Do you believe they will continue to push the boundaries of traditional tea production, and if so, what other exciting experiments can we look forward to?
We’ve recently unveiled our second barrel aging project, Drunken Dragon! This 60-day rye whiskey barrel-aged oolong tea builds upon the success of our previous venture, Tipsy Garden. Encouraged by the overwhelmingly positive reception to Drunken Dragon and Tipsy Garden, we’re eager to further delve into tea barrel aging. The possibilities are boundless, and we aspire to inspire more tea companies to embark on similar experimentation. Our ultimate goal is to introduce the next generation of tea products to the world, igniting a new era of innovation and appreciation for this timeless beverage.
I extend my sincere gratitude to Annie Xiang for sharing her invaluable insights and expertise in the world of experimental tea production. Through her dedication to collaboration, sustainability, and innovation, Annie continues to redefine the landscape of tea crafting, paving the way for exciting new possibilities in the industry. Here’s to Annie and the future of experimental teas like Tipsy Garden, inspiring us to explore, innovate, and savor the endless potential of this timeless beverage! Have you tried either the Tipsy Garden or Drunken Dragon? I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Steep well,
– Marco
STEAP'D 